It depends mostly on size, excavation, base depth, site access and the paver you choose. A level yard with easy access costs less per foot than a sloped lot that needs a small wall or steps. Borders, curves, inlays and seat walls add labor. A free estimate is the best way to see real numbers for your yard. You can request one here.

Pavers themselves handle freeze and thaw well because each unit can move slightly without cracking. Heaving usually comes from a thin base, poor compaction or water trapped in clay soil under the patio. A properly excavated, compacted gravel base with good drainage and solid edge restraint is what keeps a patio flat year after year.

Pavers cost more up front than plain concrete in many cases, but they handle soil movement better and can be lifted and reset if an area settles. Concrete can crack, and repairs tend to show. Pavers also offer more colors, shapes and borders. The right choice depends on budget, look and how long you plan to stay in the home.

It depends on your city or township and the project. Simple patios often need little more than a zoning check, while taller retaining walls, driveways and work near property lines or easements may need permits or engineering. HOAs and historic districts can add their own review. Your installer should help you sort this out before work starts.